In this era of the updated hamburger, it’s surprising that such short shrift has been given its sidekick, the French fry. But at last a thrilling new fry has revealed itself — in the Chinatown neighborhood of Flushing, Queens, of all places. Xiao La Jiao is a superb Sichuan restaurant better known by its American name, Little Pepper, and its unassuming “potato in hot sauce,” too well hidden at the end of an epic menu, is a fry apart.
Shocking news first: these crinkle-cut lovelies are harvested straight from the Ore-Ida freezer bag. (I asked.) They are then sautéed in chili oil;dusted with cumin, Sichuan peppercorn and other “secret China things,” according to the chef;and flecked with fried scallions. A fire-breathing plate of potatoes, more tender than crispy, this would make most beef patties quake in their buns.
十月 22, 2009
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